France 101

(I wrote this a couple of weeks ago, then somehow didn’t post it)

For all of those NPR-listeners out there (hey, Mom and Dad), the following will not come as a surprise: France is currently on strike. From the beginning of my stay here, back in September, there have been a variety of public demonstrations, marches, barricades, and blockades on public transportation. The reason for all of this hoopla is that the French government somewhat recently passed a law increasing the age of retirement by two years. This, of course, has caused outrage among the general public, which in France translates to les grèves (strikes). Here, strikes are common enough events, generally planned out in advance. Professional employees of all trades can choose to participate in them, and refuse to go to work, joining the masses marching along the barricaded cobblestone streets, or they can attempt to carry on their quotidian routines. I say attempt, because getting to and from work on strike days is fairly tricky. Metro and bus schedules become more irregular, and trains are essentially cancelled. For those lucky few that have cars, the streets in Lille itself are jammed up, and the highway leading out to the city’s suburbs and surrounding towns is essentially impossible to get through. Moreover, as part of the strike, gas stations are generally barricaded off, rendering it impossible for drivers to refill their quickly dwindling supplies of fuel.

I myself was not aware that there was going to be another grève this week (there have already been a few), until I arrived at the train station, bright and early on Monday morning, to find it more packed than usual. I became suspicious when I looked at the train schedule, and noticed that more and more arriving trains were running late, and that my train wasn’t running at all. Then large groups of police wearing body armor began filing into the station. Curioser and curioser. I finally noticed, summoning all of my early-Monday-morning deductive skills, the large sign beside the arrival billboard, announcing a national two day strike. Needless to say, getting to work was out of the question. I went to the zoo instead.

Throughout the day, my friends and I continued to receive reports of groups of demonstrators throwing glass bottles and rocks at police cars and setting fire to trashcans. What this has to do with encouraging the senate to pass a new referendum on the age of retirement somewhat escapes me.

Today, I felt fairly proud of myself, having independently figured out an alternative trajectory to get to work, involving a myriad of buses and metros. Sure, I had to get up about two hours earlier than usual, but it was certainly worth it: I had a fantastic day with the students. Funnily enough, the cafeteria lunch today was a cheeseburger with fries and a snickers ice cream bar for dessert. A real American lunch, as some of the students noted. I didn’t have the heart to tell them that we generally don’t put soft boiled eggs on our burgers, nor do we serve them with a side of bread. I’m really enjoying the on-going introduction period at my schools. I’m still in the process of meeting and getting to know all of the students, the majority of whom always have a multitude of questions to throw at me.

Next week is the beginning of fall break, so I’ll be checking out of France for a bit. I’m heading south to Spain for five days, and hopefully heading up to Amsterdam afterwards. Tales of those adventures to come.

News pictures of some of the manifestations in Lille: http://www.monstersandcritics.com/news/europe/features/article_1592796.php/France-General-Strike-Pictures?page=1

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The ETA Side of Me

Uni PassauHere’s an extra post for the week that I promised a month ago. I’ll post an extra one to make up for Herbstferien (Fall Break), which will be a wonderful treat for myself because I’m going to allow myself to indulge in my love for Bavaria. My justifications? I did spend a little over a week in my favorite German state and relived some moments of familiar regional differences that I somehow forgot about. It’ll be a culturally significant blog post, I promise!

I continually forget that there is a possibility of people reading this blog who may or may not understand what an English Teaching Assistant (ETA) in Germany does or where I actually work. I’ve already touched upon this topic a few times in my previous posts, but I’ll go into heavier detail about my school assignment, which will help you all understand the environment I work in.

(The picture above: the university’s campus in Passau. Named the most beautiful campus in Germany, which I wholeheartedly agree with.)

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Down Time & Crunch Time

After my trip to Sicily, I had Fall Break. I had no trips outside of Rome planned for this period, as many other students did, but I did have quite a few projects to work on. Most notably, I had an oral report to give on the Forum Iulium, one of the imperial fora, located adjacent to the Forum Romanum. Also, I had a Greek composition project to do and a Greek midterm to study for. Consequently, I spent a lot of my break working on these academic concerns, though I also had plenty of time to catch up on sleep, to return to my exercise routine, and to rest.

This past week, however, was chaos. Perhaps I hadn’t worked hard enough during break, but I was swamped with work once our program started up again. My oral report kept me busy on Monday night, since my presentation was on Tuesday and my Greek midterm kept me busy on Tuesday and Wednesday, since the midterm was on Thursday morning. Despite my looming anxieties, the week was full of fun opportunities. On Tuesday, we visited, in addition to the Forum Iulium, the Forum of Augustus, which had the Temple of Mars Ultor. This temple, mostly in ruins now, sounds like it was one of the most beautiful Roman creations, based on my professor’s description of it. On the same day we visited the reconstructed Ara Pacis, which is stunning. On Wednesday, we visited the Forum Romanum for a second time to view the additions of the Late Republic and the Augustan period, including, among other things, the partially-excavated residence of Augustus and the Basilica Iulia. After my Greek midterm on Thursday, I caught up on sleep once again and used the weekend to rest and to get ahead on next week’s challenges (including my Latin midterm!). Today, Sunday the 31st, was particularly enjoyable because our professors held a barbecue for us. We had a taste of our much-missed American cuisine and the opportunity to dress in costumes. A friend and I dressed as two foosball players from the Centro’s table named Posso and Finito.

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Hot Pot

A pretty common question I get whenever I have a mildly in-depth conversation with Taiwanese acquaintances is, “so, what’s your favorite food here?”

Well, let me tell you, it’s hot pot.

Spicy hot pot

Spicy hot pot

Hot pot, legend has it, was invented by the Mongol hordes over or around 1,000 years ago. The story goes that, vegetables and whatever food was available was cooked in boiling water or broth, using a helmet as the “pot.” Continue reading

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Reminded of Home in the Chilean Countryside

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Mapuche babies are strapped onto a wooden frame cushioned by wool made to be carried directly on their mothers’ backs. While the mother is cooking or tending to other household duties, the baby is placed near her on the floor in the same toboggan-like contraption. Thus, the baby is always kept close proximity to its mother, creating a strong bond and a straight back.

A Mapuche woman I met recently lamented that this tradition is not carried on. Nowadays, Mapuche children are put in daycare at a young age, as occurs widely throughout the Americas in other indigenous and non-indigenous communities. However, she still tries to carry on this ancient tradition of mother and child always together by taking care of her grandchildren while their mother works.

I was lucky enough to be invited to a Mapuche community near Pucón, Chile for an afternoon, to share a traditional meal on a farm, visit a Mapuche heritage museum, and discuss current issues and past traditions with members of the Mapuche tribe. The farm we went to was stunningly scenic, situated near a wide and winding river with verdantly green mountains in the background. It reminded me of home, especially after being chased by a goose behind the woodshed (I grew up in farm country in Middle-of-nowhere, Northern Minnesota).

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We discussed human rights violations involving Chilean anti-terrorism laws that have led to unjust arrests of members of the Mapuche nation; sadly, some of them are under the age of 18. Over thirty Mapuche peoples went on an extremely long hunger strike (approximately 90 days) in protest of these anti-terrorism laws, which allowed the Chilean state to arrest and convict indigenous peoples for minor offenses committed on their own lands. Finally, it seems that the government is enacting some change in these unfair laws. The members of the Mapuche nation I met were not directly involved in this recent strike, but explained that they deeply support the cause, for many of their fellow tribe members are unjustly detained in prison as I write this.

On a lighter note, I also had an unforgettable chat with a kind-hearted and very jolly shopkeeper about canning vegetables. When I mentioned that my mom from “gringolandia” enjoys canning as well, she shared a recipe with me for lavender and honey canned carrots. Nothing is better than making these kinds of personal connections, and I’m incredibly happy that my currently more comfortable grasp of the Spanish language allows for them.

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Spending the weekend in a rural area made me realize how much I appreciate the fresh air and the chance to walk around barefoot. Although I’ve thoroughly been enjoying Viña del Mar and Valparaiso, traveling through the Southern Chilean countryside provided a welcome respite from city life.

My study abroad program CIEE had arranged this trip to Pucon, Chile last weekend for our entire group of about 40 students. In addition to spending time with indigenous peoples in the area, I had the chance to go white water rafting, relax in hot springs, and hike around gorgeous waterfalls. Adventure tourism is prolific in this area. And it’s funny, the mossy rocks and giant trees reminded me of my second home in the Pacific Northwest.

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With only 50 days left in Chile, I’m trying to fully appreciate my final weeks here despite the sudden inundation of essays, presentations and exams that have made Chilean university more equivalent to UPS standards in its final month. I’m working on a twenty page paper about the history of education of women in Chile in the Nineteenth Century, and the day after that’s due I’m spending the first weekend of November in Cuzco and Machu Picchu, Peru! “Work hard, play hard” is my current motto.

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Birthday Trip

BurghausenAs mentioned in a previous post, I spent my Fall Break in Bavaria. There’s a lot to share but I always wince when thinking back on that apartment post. I will keep that promise and spare you the pain of reading so much.

My really good friend, E, and I decided to try carpooling, which is very popular in Germany. The website is www.mitfahrgelegenheit.de and is pretty much a listing of drivers throughout Germany who have extra space in their vehicles. If you happen to be going to the same destination from the same place as a driver,  you can book the drive. We’ve heard of this while we were studying in Munich a couple of years ago but as a girl, you tend to be cautious with these things. Many drivers are college-aged men and although there are girls who do travel by themselves with this service (we’ve heard no complaints or dangerous situations arising from this), we didn’t want to risk it. We changed our minds this time because we were going to be together and seeing that E took a woman’s self-defense class, I felt at ease with this decision.

The drive was going well for the first hour-and-twenty minutes until we hit major traffic. Three hours and a mere 26 kilometers later, we found ourselves finally out of the stop-and-go mess. We didn’t get to Munich until 2 AM.

However, the rest of the trip was absolutely wonderful! Before I continue explaining: the picture above is of one of the many buildings of the longest fortress in Europe located in Burghausen.

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National Day

10/10/10 is a pretty auspicious day.
So, since this year’s national day happens to be a trifecta date force, there was a huge party put on by the government.

Taiwan is a bountiful country

Taiwan is a bountiful country

The date itself is pretty cool, but 10/10 happens to also be Taiwan’s National Day. It’s a little convoluted as far as the difference be “national” and “independence.” 10/10 in Taiwan commemorates the Wuchang uprising, which eventually lead to the fall of the Qing dynasty, and the creation of the Republic of China, on the mainland, in 1912. When the KMT came to Taiwan in 1949, they brought the same national day with them. Continue reading

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Sicily

I just returned yesterday from a week-long trip with my program to Sicily.

We began the trip the Friday before last by boarding our program’s private bus driven by the ever-patient Fabio. On the first day, we visited a couple of sites in Campania on the way down toward Sicily, including a wonderfully preserved Greek settlement that had been the home of the famous Presocratic philosopher Zeno, who is now known largely for his intriguing “paradoxes.” We were delighted to learn that there was a beach right by our hotel on the first night. We spent a few hours swimming, playing soccer, and ultimate frisbee. Two of our professors participated in the frisbee game.

On the next day we took an overnight ferry to Sicily and found ourselves exhausted in the morning. A day-by-day description of the Sicily trip would be tiresome both to write and to read, so I’ll summarize our shared experience. Each day began with a hearty breakfast at a new hotel and ended with a two-course dinner at a different hotel. In the intervening time, we usually visited three to five sites housing theaters, homes, workshops, markets, government structures, an incredible amount of Doric temples, and some structures and ruins that have not been identified. We also visited a considerable amount of structures from the Middle Ages–mostly cathedrals. In addition to the man-made marvels of historical Sicilians, we were privileged to view Sicily’s magnificent natural landscape in sunny, rainy, and misty weather. From our site visits we learned about various peoples of Sicily’s history including native inhabitants, Phoenician colonists, Carthaginian colonists, Greek colonists, Roman conquerors and settlers, barbarians, Byzantines, Arabs, and Normans.

This past Friday we took another overnight ferry from Sicily and, thoroughly exhausted from our trip, slept on the bus back back to Rome on Saturday morning.

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De la Mer à la Merde

Well, I almost succeeded at writing two blogs this last week. Almost.

It’s becoming more and more difficult, as we enter my second month in France, to sum up each week’s events in a few hundred words. I end up having to pick and choose, excluding an array of delightful anecdotes.

For example, last weekend, I was invited to go to the coast with a group of French kids (which I briefly mentioned in my last blog). We had a lovely time, spending our days lounging on the unseasonably warm beach, sipping wine, munching on fresh baguettes and a variety of strong cheeses (my favorite actually had a line of blue mold running through the middle of it—nummy).

Sunday night, on the way back to Lille from our excursion, the highway was inevitably clogged up with other weekend vacationers returning to the city for the work week. After a few hours of Rest-Stop-less travel, and with another hour of sitting in the car to go, we were all facing a slight dilemma. We needed a toilet, and we needed it fast. Our driver pulled over, and I scurried off to look for an enclosed area. Finding a dark ditch, I thought that I had hit the jackpot, forgetting one tiny fact: Lille is surrounded by farms. Some of these agricultural establishments happen to have cows on them. (Do you know where this is going? Not yet? Okay, hang on. It’s about to get really good.)

As I began to slowly inch my way down the side of the ditch, I lost balance, falling into what I thought was a muddy creek. By this point, I’m swearing in two languages, grasping at whatever plants I could find to pull myself up the slippery slope. With a lovely slurping sound, my legs came out of the goo. I managed to do a sort of graceful crab-walk up the side, and as I was about to triumphantly pull myself out of the ditch, warmly greeted by my friends’ laughter, I tripped, falling into a prickly plant, which caused my hands to almost immediately break out into tiny red spots.

Trudging back to the car, it finally dawned on me, as the brown substance caked onto my pants began to emit a rather pungent order, that I had fallen into cow crap. I was forced to strip down before reentering the car, as I, while cracking up, attempted to explain the situation in French to my compatriots. My hands were fine the next day, it was just a sort of instantaneous allergic reaction that was bested with a friend’s magical cortisone-based creams. All in all, it was quite the weekend, including a full range of emotions and experiences, which can be summed up in a fun play on words: “de la mer à la merde” (from the sea, into crap).

Following that episode, the rest of my week was fairly tame. I continued the observation period at my second middle school, Flines-les-Roches, meeting the majority of teachers and students with whom I’ll be working. The teachers are still friendly, and the kids are still adorable. In one class, the teacher presented me to her students, without telling them any information about me, wanting them to use their English skills to discern my name, nationality, etc. Upon hearing my accent, one boy asked if I was Australian. Another, after hearing I was from the US, asked if I lived in the city of Scotland. Other questions ranged from “are you married?” to “have you eaten escargot?” to “do you speak French?” They were shocked to find out that I wasn’t married (everything above twenty is ancient to preteens), that I had eaten escargot, and that I could speak French. I’m looking forward to actually teaching these kids!

Over the last few weeks, I’ve also had the opportunity to learn a bit about the differences between French and American middle schools. For example, rather than dividing the classes into three grades (though I suppose that depends on the middle school), collèges have four levels, labeled 6ème (the entry level, 10-11-year-olds) through 3ème (the last level before high school, 14-15-years-olds). Here, students attend classes from eight in the morning until five or five thirty in the evening, Monday through Friday. Some schools have classes on Saturday mornings rather than on Wednesday afternoons. Each class is about an hour long, and the lunch break lasts for two hours. Upon entering a class, students line up behind their desks, until the teacher invites them to sit down. Drinking and eating in the classroom is strictly prohibited, something I learned as I pulled out my Nalgene in the middle of a lecture. The entire class, including the teacher, turned around and looked at me in amazement. Little did I know that I was providing the class with a real-life example of American classroom culture (something that the 5ème students are in the process of studying). As far as courses go, I’ve also learned that in addition to the standard, required English classes, some students opt to take two extra hours of English per week. These students are grouped into the more advanced “Euro” class level. From what I’ve ascertained, I’ll be spending a lot of my time here working with these students, who have already shown a high interest in English.

Tomorrow, I begin my “Formation,” or training period, at the Collège du Pévèle. I’m not exactly sure what all will be entailed in my training, though I assume that it means that I’ll be taking a bit more of an active role in the classroom.

A bientôt!
flowers from the sunday morning market

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Mendoza and the Mining Miracle

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Mendoza, Argentina

The Argentinean border is just a few hours by bus over the Andes mountain range from where I’m studying in Viña del Mar, Chile. Nestled in the scenic foothills lies the city of Mendoza, nicknamed the “Land of Sun and Good Wine” (perhaps this slogan is mainly to entice tourists, but I discovered it to be true). Vineyards and warmer weather beckoned, and a group of friends and I headed over the mountains last weekend to visit this beautiful city. The lovely tree-lined streets, elegant cafes and various artisan vendors enticed us as we wandered through the streets after an overnight bus ride.

As I’d been advised by my host family and Chilean friends, the people of Argentina turned out to be quite different from Chileans. Not only is their Spanish much clearer and easier to understand, but they’re a lot more friendly with strangers and eager to use their English. For the first time, when conversing with people I was actually asked whether I preferred to speak in Spanish or English. My friends and I realized (what many Chileans had already admitted) that we had definitely chosen a tough country to learn Spanish in, but at this point we were sort of proud that Spanish actually seemed relatively “easy” to understand in another country. As a professor here once remarked in class, “If you can understand Spanish in Chile, you can understand it anywhere.”

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Biking and Wining

The highlight of Argentina was definitely a bike and wine tour we did the second day of our trip in a sleepy little town called Coquimbito. We rented bicycles from a friendly man named Mr. Hugo, and then headed off down a picturesque dirt road. The best thing about the tour was that we were able to be very independent.  Once we had our bikes we simply set off with a small map and a few vineyard brochures.

A museum of wine was our first stop and fairly interesting; they offered a good description of the wine production process and history of vineyards in Mendoza. Next on the list was a foodie’s dream. Olive oil factory, chocolate manufacturer, and producer of an insanely wide variety of other products for the tasting, we spent a couple hours indulging at the second venue. We were served locally produced olive oil, balsamic vinegar, olive and garlic tapenade, pepper spread, chocolate, absinthe, chocolate hazelnut liquor, and five kinds of delectable dulce de leche. It was like eating a ten-course lunch in perfectly small doses. We ended our tour at a great outdoor restaurant at yet another vineyard, after a healthy amount of biking down a beautiful road out of town with farms on either side.

To cap off a great trip, we made a couple new friends at our hostel, including a friendly young Argentinean teacher who generously shared the traditional drink of mate with us. We drank the steeped yerba mate tea leaves out of a silver straw in a mate calabash gourd. After seeing these gourds for sale all over the artisan marketplace, we appreciated learning the custom from an experienced mate drinker (and not just testing it out for ourselves as tourists). All in all, Argentina was a welcoming place and I hope someday I’ll have time to return and visit Buenos Aires and Iguassu Falls (among the many other beautiful cities and scenic destinations).

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Miner Rescue

I can’t end this blog without a comment on the completion of the early rescue of the 33 miners in Northern Chile last night! The night the first miner was rescued we were celebrating my friend’s birthday at her house. After dinner, we happened to turn on the news just in time to see the second miner emerging from the rescue capsule. It was incredibly moving to sit with my friends here in Chile and watch the miners reuniting with their families.

Of course, everyone is elated that the miners are all alive and well, but understandably a substantial number of Chileans have negative opinions about this miracle story being turned into a scandal. Should the stories of the miner’s mistresses be put on the same level of newsworthiness as the rescued worker’s health and wellbeing? The miners have become media darlings, but I doubt whether they appreciate stories of their affairs plastered on the front pages of the world’s biggest newspapers. As reported in the New York Times, the miner Mario Sepúlveda stated, “I want to be treated as Mario Sepúlveda and I want to continue working. That’s all I want.” Sepúlveda’s wish is simple, but seems next to impossible at this point.

Headlines such as “Piñera announces changes to labor legislation and invites miners to visit La Moneda,” makes one wonder whether it takes a terrible accident for political progress to be made in labor laws. What’s more, there’s talk of Sebastián Piñera, a businessman and Chile’s first conservative president in 20 years, using the mining incident to bolster his own popularity. From what I can see, these topics are more scandalous than the stories of extramarital affairs that emerged while the miners remained trapped below ground.

Posted in Rose Thompson '11, Chile | Comments Off on Mendoza and the Mining Miracle