tick tock: the life of very old clocks

London continues to be awesome! This past week has seen some very hot and very rainy days. Although I am from the desert, the hot days here seem to be much warmer because, unlike Las Vegas, there are not many places in the UK that have air conditioning. This can be particularly uncomfortable if you use the underground to commute! The only breezes down there come from the zooming trains, and often you arrive at your destination and leave the station gasping for fresh air! On the flip side, I have found the wet weather here to actually be very like Puget Sound. It can be very quick to change, going from light drizzles, to pockets of sun, to downpours. But here umbrellas are used way more than on campus!

So far my internship has been going very well. I enjoy everything, especially the people I have had the chance to meet, and the things I have been fortunate enough to see. If you are at the Foundling Museum for any length of time and you’ll notice that at the top of any hour there is a fabulous cacophonous din of clocks ringing in the new hour. There are quite a few historical clocks throughout the museum, and when I hear them I like to think about how long these clocks have been around. They have stoically sat, ticking away time, years beyond the lives of their makers. Normally once a week the clocks are wound so that they continue to keep good time. This week we had a very special clock preservation and restoration event.

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(Since I can’t take photos inside the museum, this photo is courtesy the Museum and Communications Assistant- for more info check here)

The clocks were taken apart and oiled and repaired and kept in good condition. It was really interesting to watch, and takes a lot of skills to do. I spoke with one of the men working on the clocks, and he said that historical clocks are especially difficult to work with because they often do not follow any established pattern. The earlier the clock, the more unique its inner workings. Now that I have seen how these clocks work on the inside, I will be even more aware of their pasts.
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(photo courtesy the Museum and Communications Assistant-for more info check here)

This past weekend I also had the chance to visit two other fabulous London Museums, The Museum of Childhood and the Victoria and Albert Museum. The Victoria and Albert Museum turned out to be way larger and more complex than I imagined, and I could probably spend weeks in there! As it was during this particular visit, I didn’t even finish the ground floor! Luckily it is close enough to where I am staying in Chelsea that I can walk there easily. So it may become an ongoing place to visit…

The childhood museum is very good. It is very much a kid friendly place, but it is also interesting for kid’s at heart. I found it also to be a slightly nostalgic place for me (in a good way though). There are toys and objects there that can make you remember atime when you were small. But the older stuff there also makes you realize that *everyone* was once small. Babies and children of the 18th century were not so different fro the way they are now.
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18th century walker

There was a very cute story about a donated teddy bear named Tommy. His owner received the bear in 1908, and kept him throughout his life. After donating the bear to the museum, he continued to visit the bear and sent his favorite toy a birthday card every year until the man passed away.

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Tommy the well loved Teddy bear

Lastly this past weekend was the Trooping of the Colour! This is the official celebration of the Queen’s Birthday complete with the presentation of a regiments flag (colours). I was lucky enough to go and see the queen and other members of the royal family, along with the whole ceremony.
See the Queen, Prince William, and some lovely marching French horns (I play so I couldn’t resist) here.

This week should be very fun! I am going to the London Metropolitan Archives and Madame Tussau’s! Should be awesome!

Posted in Danielle Acheampong '11, London | Comments Off on tick tock: the life of very old clocks

Dublin: Town of Saints and Sheep, and lots of drugs too!

So, that’s one of the first things I was told while sitting at orientation.  Mind you, by the “Garda,” a local police officer.  When I finally arrived in Dublin, it was nearly 7 AM here and I still had a long day ahead of me.  I had to meet my program advisors, catch a taxi (I’m pretty sure the guy drove in circles for a bit to raise the price!) drag my suitcase to the apartment, meet my new housemates and finally organize everything.  I only slept for about an hour total on the plane, and another 45 minute nap later that day.  I woke up in the middle of my nap and couldn’t feel my arms, that’s how tired my body was!  Two of my flatmates, Kara and Jess, and I went shopping for groceries and whatnot.  They’re pretty chill so far which is a plus!  Our apartment is great as well (it’s almost as if it’s an American apartment in Europe) which is awesome if you have any sort of European living experiences.  We have water pressure…hot water…a washer WITH a dryer, a dish washer, a TV, internet, a printer.  It’s AMAZING.  Shhh, don’t tell the others on the program.  They won’t be happy.  Their kitchens and showers are tiny, they have no dishwashers or dryers, internet doesn’t work for some…I am counting my blessings!  🙂  There have, however, been a few mishaps, if you will.  Today I was wearing sandals on the way to Grafton Street/St. Steven’s Green where I stepped on a broken Heineken bottle and cut my foot!  I had to limp all the way back to the apartment with a bloody foot.  It was pretty terrible.  Of course, I always have some sort of, not to be too personal, but, feminine product on me.  That came in handy between my sandal and the cut.  Good thing I’m ingenious like that!  And humble, too!  Not only did this happen today, but it was really rainy too, for the first time since we’ve been here (it’s been 4 days).  I expected it to be rainy all the time, but it’s not.  Thankfully.  Another fun little thing that happened today was the power shortage that we brought upon ourselves.  As soon as I know it, my housemate accidentally ended up making all the power go out upstairs, including the fridge!  So we had to call our RA (againnnn), Eammon, to help us figure out what to do.  With a few pushes of some buttons, we were back up and running, thank God. 

We did have a little “family dinner” tonight, a wonderful way to wrap up the day.  Spaghetti and vino, cooked by the housemate!  How cute, ate by candle light.  Classy at worst.  Anyways, I have to go to sleep now, I am starting my internship tomorrow at Trinity College.  I’ll be working with psychologists, a lawyer, an OT and some other professionals and interns at the Anti-Bullying Centre doing psychological research!  I’m very excited, but nervous too.  I bought some nice clothes at H&M for it today, so that makes me feel more prepared.  I may also get to take part in, and at the very least, observe some psychological assessments and hopefully counseling.  I’ll update about all that for sure.

Posted in Gina Scarsella '11, Dublin | Comments Off on Dublin: Town of Saints and Sheep, and lots of drugs too!

On ‘Reverse Culture Shock’…

As promised, I owe you all one more post from the good ol’ US of A. Although I nearly missed my flight from Amsterdam-to-Portland (because of a lack of communication between the KLM and Delta systems), and although my luggage didn’t actually arrive in Portland until 24 hours after I arrived in Portland (thank goodness for leaving so many clothes at home)… I did safely land at home on May 30th.

Since that flight just under 2 weeks ago, I have had the chance to get over my jet lag (which had me going to bed at 8pm and waking up at 6am), catch up with a lot of friends and family, re-pack everything and move up to Tacoma for the summer, and start re-adjusting to the American Life.

Although it IS good to be back in a place where my loved ones are, and where my voice doesn’t ID me as a ‘foreigner’, I would be lying if I said that I didn’t miss Scotland. I miss it SO much. I miss the people who become my friends there, and I miss the ability to walk everywhere. I miss the relatively inexpensive groceries (I practically walked out of Safeway in protest when I had to pay $4 for a loaf of bread, or nearly $5 for a small jar of Nutella). I miss the accents! And I miss the independence and confidence that comes with supporting yourself in a ‘foreign’ country that, over the course of 5 months, became home. I wouldn’t go so far as to call my return to the States ‘culture shock’ since, really, I was prepared for the vast expanses of pavement, the huge houses, and the ridiculously-oversized grocery stores (although Costco was a little too much stimuli for the first week). I have, after all, lived here for over 20 years of my life. Instead, it’s more of a gradual process of understanding that my semester in Edinburgh changed my outlook on the world… and that my new outlook is not necessarily shared by everyone back here in the States. As long as I understand that, though, and adjust to the details of a life lived in Tacoma, things should be just fine! 🙂

I’ve now finished my first week of research with the Chemistry Department. The lasers I will be working with are not yet calibrated, so I’ve been doing mostly literature searching/background information learning, but it’s all really interesting, and I’m really excited for the opportunity to work with the lasers when they are up and running! I’m also excited to explore parts of Tacoma/Washington that I haven’t seen yet, and to catch up with friends that I haven’t seen in at least 6 months. Needless to say, it should be a good summer… and an amazing Senior year!

Signing off for the last time,
Alayna

Posted in Alayna Schoblaske '10, Scotland | Comments Off on On ‘Reverse Culture Shock’…

Research in Vietnam: Keeping the Urban Harvest Safe

And now for the second installment of the Vietnomalies…

Music is always in the air in Vietnam. And every once in a while, this music is coming from the trucks and cars. But I’m not referring to the incessant horns in the city, but to the musical numbers that come from the automobiles as they reverse. I have heard such numbers as “it’s a small world,” “twinkle, twinkle,” a number of Christmas songs (long after Christmas was over) and, my favorite, “Paint with all the colors of the Rainbow” from the Pocahontas  movie. I am definitely going to miss this.

Urban Agriculture on Long Bien Island

One of the reasons I chose to study abroad with SIT was because SIT is known for the independent research project (ISP) that each student is responsible for at the end of the semester. Students spend the last four weeks on their own doing field research, talking with specialists, writing a 20-40 page paper and preparing a 30 minute presentation. There was quite the diversity of topics ranging from an ethnographic study of nuns at a Zen monastery in Dalat to an analysis of Vietnam’s higher education reforms. I focused my research on the issues of food safety looking specifically at the urban and peri-urban agriculture in Hanoi.

Hanoi is undoubtedly a “green city” due to its wealth of agriculture within and surrounding the city. Back in 2002, 42% of Hanoi’s land was being farmed and in 2008, about 27% of the population was employed by agriculture in some way. This is largely possible because Hanoi has established itself as a political and educational center, and not as the industrial center that Ho Chi Minh City has. The city can afford to have much of their space be agricultural, even though it is less economically viable than industrial development would be.

There are also many opportunities for farmers, consumers, and city planners to have agriculture be so close to the urban center. The biggest one is increased food security. As the population in Hanoi grows at a rapid rate, there is going to be an increased demand for food. Urban farmers are able to supply fresh produce more quickly and efficiently than importers. There is an increase in farmers’ access to the markets meaning they don’t have to work through middle-men. There is also a higher level of transparency for consumers, since they often know their farmers personally. There are also many non-quantifiable benefits to urban and peri-urban agriculture: providing much needed green-space for city dwellers, protecting surrounding areas against urban sprawl, increasing bio-diversity, and protecting against flooding and soil erosion to name a few.

Despite the benefits and opportunities of this agricultural space, this space struggles with high heavy metal content in the soil and water, the use of dangerous agrochemicals, and harmful microorganisms such as e coli and salmonella making the harvest unsafe.  The most dangerous of these problems is the unregulated use of highly toxic pesticides due to the lack of regulations and restrictions regarding pesticides, the extreme measures that push farmers to use pesticides and increased access to highly toxic pesticides.

I then worked with three organizations that are working to make this urban harvest safe: governmental policies which are working to institute their own Good Agricultural Policies as required by the WTO, a grass-roots NGO that is supporting farmers as they transition to organic vegetable production, and roof-top gardeners using soil-less systems of production. One of the more disconcerting findings is that, currently, safe vegetables are only available to those who can afford them, even though the majority of all consumers regardless of socio-economic status are very concerned with the safety of their vegetables. Furthermore, the government struggles to implement these large scale regulations with an agricultural system that is comprised of small family farms. I have a lot of hope for all of these programs, largely because the demand for safe vegetables is only increasing due to the increased awareness and the opportunity for consumers to pay more for food they trust. Furthermore, Hanoi city planners are making moves to protect this agricultural space, as long as the production is efficient and safe, through Hanoi’s “Green Belt.”

Organic Vietnamese Beans!

Posted in Micaela Cooley '11, Vietnam | Comments Off on Research in Vietnam: Keeping the Urban Harvest Safe

Londonland!

Life so far in London has been fantastic!
This week I started my internship, but I had a week before to get adjusted to living in London, and to explore the city. Naturally, I hit as many historical places as I could. Along the way I also had the chance to see a few modern “wonders” too! During the first week, they had us purchase “oyster cards” which are prepaid transport cards that London commuters use to get around. They are good on buses, trains, and most importantly, the tube! I had to go to two internship interviews at museums during the first week, which were located in two very different parts on London. It was great practice for using the underground, and because I was traveling around on the tube, I was able to make a stop at a very special station. Any guesses as to where?

Get ready Harry Potter fans…have you guessed?

Harry Potter 7 at King's Cross!

Harry Potter 7 at King's Cross!

King’s Cross Station! Where they were set up for filming the last scenes of the last film! The security guard near the set said they have something like 2 weeks of filming left, total. Talk about lucky!

The other members of my program and I also had the opportunity to attend the red carpet premiere of Sex and the City 2 in Leicester Square. While there, we were sort of interviewed by a local radio station! (Although we were slightly confused about who they were…) Lucky again! Check out the video of our encounter here.
LBC not BBC
We also were able to see the film’s stars as they arrived and entered the Odeon Theatre.

Now…on to the History!
I was able to visit the British Museum during my first week with one of London’s fabulous “blue badge” guides, Liz. These guides are some of the best in the UK and they know so much about their city. The British Museum is completely free (except for special exhibitions), and unless otherwise noted, it is completely fine to take pictures and videos. She took us on a PR slanted, highlights tour of the ancient world. Public Relations, and the use of PR by politicians, has not changed much since Ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, or Ancient Greece.
See the British Museum, and learn a bit about the Rosetta Stone
Some Elgin Marbles
We were able to see a copy and the original Rosetta stone, in addition to the very controversial “Elgin Marbles”.

I went to the tower of London, and had the chance to see the Crown jewels. They were worn by the queen just last week for the state opening of parliament! Ultra-security entering this area. There were guards, bag checks, and huge vault doors protecting the royal finery. As I overheard a parent explain the security measures to their child, “You are now entering one of the most secure buildings in Britain.” Needless to say no photography or filming in that exhibit! But honestly it was so bedazzling you felt as though one flash would blind everyone! Check out some outdoor shots of the Tower, along with a re-enactment of the English Civil War!
Tower of London
I tried to be a royal guard…but I only think my hair measured up!

At the weekend the other interns and I decided to take a trip down to Dover Castle and the White Cliffs. It was the weekend of the 70th anniversary of Dunkirk, so the secret tunnels from WWII (located near the castle) had many events set up.
Secret Tunnels
When Germany invaded and held France, Britain was forced to evacuate their remaining troops under enemy fire. Because of Dover’s close proximity to France, (from the Dover Coast France is actually visible) it became a major part of the evacuation. In all over 300,000 troops were evacuated. The day we went there were many veterans visiting.
WWII Gun

Though it turned out to be quite a hike to the castle, the views were spectacular! And they had set up the inside to reflect how the Castle might have looked under the reign of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine, during the 12th century!
Dover Banner
The top
Here is a video of our epic visit to the top of Dover Castle!
After all that fun, I have to enter a more structured schedule centering around my internship at the Foundling Museum. I am looking forward to the weeks to come. They should be very exciting!
Climbed!

Posted in Danielle Acheampong '11, London | Comments Off on Londonland!

A trip to the Clouds

I would like to apologize for the serious lack of blog for the past month… the end of the trip was absolute madness, and then suddenly the semester was over! Excuses aside, I cannot believe that I have successfully completed a semester abroad in Vietnam, made 11 new amazing friends, turned 40 page paper on urban agriculture in Hanoi, and did it in an audai. At the moment, I am sitting at a beach-side cafe on the island of Phu Quoc with two other girls from the program. We weren’t ready to leave south-east asia, and so we’ve traveled for a week in Cambodia and have decided to end our travels on an island paradise… life is so hard. These last couple blogs are going to require a walk down memory lane since I want to make sure I blog about my trip to Sapa, my final research project, and our trip to Cambodia.

Before I share my experience in Sapa, I would like to introduce a new section of my blogs entitled: Viet-nomalies. These little gems are aspects about the Vietnamese way of life that us SIT students couldn’t figure out for the life of us. The first Viet-nomaly is… MOLE HAIR. These are individuals, usually men, who are completely clean shaven except for the half-dozen or so hairs that grow out of a mole on their face. This is especially popular in the Mekong Delta. The explanation? Good luck. Well, there you go…

MOLE HAIR?

And now… SAPA!

!The amazon women take on Northern Vietnam!

I was so fortunate to have my aunt Karen come visit me in Hanoi while she was in Asia on business. It was so wonderful to feel the comfort of family while in Vietnam. We gave ourselves a little vacation to Sapa for about 3 nights. Sapa is a town in the northern part of Vietnam, close to the Chinese border. The overnight train takes you from Hanoi to Lao Cai, and then a short bus ride to the town of Sapa. Sapa was significantly cooler and tucked into what looked like asian alps, both lush and green but jagged, fierce, and huge.

we drove under it...

Sapa has attracted tourists from the city since the time of French colonization for its cool weather, but also for the staggering beauty of the culture of the ethnic minorities that live in the north. The largest group is the Black H’mong, but there are about 50 ethnic minorities that live in the north. I still cannot even describe the beauty of the area… enjoy the pictures,  words simply aren’t enough.

Tiered rice fields Water buffalos! Had to restrain from cuddling with them...

The best part of the trip was our guide. We were told to request a local guide when looking for someone to take us around the area. “Chai,” which is her Vietnamese name, met my aunt and I at our hotel in a traditional black h’mong outfit of  black velvbet cloth wrapped around her ankles up to her knees, a black skirt, and a beautifully, handwoven jacket. She is only 20, and has been guiding tourists since she was 18. Her English sounded better than mine… She is the seven out of 10 kids and her family lives off of the rice they grow and what she makes as a guide. We passed her house on our drive out to the Thai village. If I had a view like hers, I don’t know if I would ever leave home.

Chai!

Growing up in the San Juan mountains, I thought I was used to white-knuckle drives through the mountains. I was wrong… this will make red mountain pass look a walk through the park. We walked through tea farms and past water buffalo to our first village, a Thai group. It was hard to say if they liked us tourists visiting, so we tried our best to respect their space and stay out of the way. One mother invited us into her stilted house, and I am so grateful she did because it was one of the best moments on the trip.  The Thai women blacken their teeth, however the government just made it illegal for girls under 18 to blacken their teeth, so only the older women do so. These women are also known for their brightly colored weavings. Their looms are built underneath their house, and set up between the stilts. They also have silver ear plugs that look like coins which they wear with flowers in their ears. Karen and I felt like complete shmucks in compared to the beautiful way these women carried themselves. Her house was filled with young boys with the brightest laughter and sweetest smiles. My trip has shown me time and again how children have the amazing ability to pay the cultural walls that we have built with age and history no mind. What wonderful people to share laughter, tea and photos with complete strangers.

The trip to the north was absolutely amazing, and one of my favorite experiences—but it is also the part of the trip that leaves my stomach churning.  Words like exploitation, cultural preservation, zoo keep ringing through my ears. We had a lecture in the beginning of the semester on sustainable tourism where we talked briefly about Sapa. There is a lot of government to preserve their culture and livelihoods as it brings in lucrative tourism. But this cultural preservation is so delicate since these changing times are undoubtedly going to have an effect.  But I couldn’t help but think about the centuries of colonialism and globalization that have had their effects on the H’mong and all the other tribes in the area. And still, their identity as H’mong remains so strong.

A family portrait They had us take about a dozen photos of them... and we gladly did

I did find out that our program is pairing up with an Sociology professor from Hanoi, Douglas Jardine, for the next semester. It should be more academically focused on the Black H’mong people as well as what sustainable tourism means in the context of Sapa. This area is a very special place, and one that demands their visitors be careful, conscious, and aware.

Posted in Micaela Cooley '11, Vietnam | Comments Off on A trip to the Clouds

Only A Matter of Hours

Greetings – for the last time – from Edinburgh! My bags are all packed, and I’ve said goodbye to all 9 of my best friends from the semester. Yes, this all means that I will be leaving Edinburgh tomorrow morning. A cab at 3:15am. A flight to Amsterdam at 6:00am. And a flight to Portland at 10:10am. And then, just like that, I’ll be back in the states, unsure of when I will ever return to Europe again. I can’t even really describe how weird this feels! I will try to post once more after I get back home just to tell you all about the flight back and share a few words about my experience with ‘reverse culture shock’. But, before I sign off, I had promised to share a few pictures from my trips last weekend and earlier this week to Galway, Ireland and the Scottish Highlands. Here are some of my favourites:

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On Friday, we took a day trip from Galway to visit the Aran Islands. We rented bikes to ride around the largest of the three islands: Inis Mor. This path along the coastline was unbelievable!!


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Another neat aspect of Inis Mor was all of the animals alongside the paths, including many newborns. We stopped to say hi to (and take pictures of) most of them, including this horse mother and son. The mama even had freckles (just like me)!

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The most spectacular part of the island are these cliffs, next to Dun Aengus (a prehistoric fort, first built around 2000 BC). They drop about 100 metres into the ocean below, and there aren’t any fences, etc. so we were able to go up the edge and sit, just watching the ocean pounding against the cliffs.

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Saturday took us to the Connemara region of Ireland, which is home to some stunning (and very diverse) scenery. This, for example, is Ireland’s only fjord!

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The main attraction in Connemara is the Kylemore Abbey… The setting of this abbey (now an all-girls school) is unbelievable, and there was also a beautiful walled garden up the hill that we got to visit. It was neat to see so many flowers in bloom since the perpetually 63-degree weather in Edinburgh makes me forget that it’s actually late May.

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The third and final day trip that we took was to the Burren district and the Cliffs of Moher. The Burren has all sorts of landscapes, but one of the most unique was the limestone slabs that you can see in the background of this picture. They made the whole area look, for lack of a better word, scaly!

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The cliffs themselves were unbelievable! They are slightly taller than the Aran Island cliffs, and the sun was shining on our visit. The area is much more restricted, though, so you can’t actually explore much of the cliffs themselves.

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That’s me, enjoying the beautiful Burren coastline at Black Head!

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On Tuesday, after returning safely from Galway, I took a bus tour to the Scottish Highlands. It was a LONG day (8am – 8pm), but very worth it to see the beautiful sights of the highlands. One of our first stops was to see Hamish, the ‘Hairy Coo’. He lives in this pasture with a female ‘coo’ named Heather, and he’s one of the oldest highlands cows around.

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Then, it was on to the good stuff! The colours of the different grasses/soils/rocks/shrubbery of the highlands was one of my favourite aspects of it, and I think this picture does a great job of capturing that.

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Finally, we paid a quick visit to Nessie… Of course, this isn’t actually the Loch Ness Monster (it’s just a cutout on the boat’s window), but we did actually go to Loch Ness. It’s the second-largest lake in Scotland, and we got to sail around a small portion of it. I hate to sound like a broken record, but it was beautiful!

Other that these travels, my last few days have been full of running errands, and revisiting a few of the best parts of Edinburgh. It was the perfect way to spend my last week in Scotland.

Right now, I have approximately 4.5 hours to kill before my taxi arrives to take me to the airport. Every once in a while, it hits me that I’m leaving and I get this sinking feeling in my stomach; ‘I’m not ready to leave! I’m not ready for this dream to be over!’, my heart says. Other times, though, I think about seeing my family in less than 24 hours, and I am beyond excited. I think that whoever created the term ‘bittersweet’ MUST have studied abroad. 🙂 I have learned so much this semester, and my largest goal is to not forget what I have learned about myself, my learning style, and my friends. I will work ardently to continue to grow when I return to Puget Sound for my senior year (and research this summer), and throughout the rest of my life, wherever my continued travels may take me. It’s been an honour sharing these experiences with you all, and I hope that my words have inspired at least one of you to study abroad as well. If you have any questions about studying abroad, or about Scotland, my offer still stands; please e-mail me! My Puget Sound address is aschoblaske@pugetsound.edu.

Posted in Alayna Schoblaske '10, Scotland | Comments Off on Only A Matter of Hours

Wrapping Things Up

Hi, everyone!

I’m sorry that I have been so absent the past month, but I promise that my life has not been TOO interesting since I got back from my European spring break. You may remember that I had two large exams on the 13th and 18th, so I was studying for those and I found myself either in the library or at my desk about 80% of the time. See? It was practically like being back in Tacoma! Exams ended yesterday, though, and now I’m taking advantage of my last eleven days in Scotland to see some things that I haven’t been able to yet. Today, for example, I tried a fried Mars Bar. It’s just what it sounds like… an entire Mars Bar (similar to Milky Way, but better) is dipped into batter, and then fried. My friend and I split one, and felt like our arteries were sufficiently clogged after two bites. It was good, but honestly the best part was the gooey caramel, and that could be achieved without frying it! Here’s a picture of the ‘delicacy’:

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I am also taking advantage of the warmer weather (it’s all relative, though, because after a 64-degree high yesterday, my friends and I decided that was ‘hot’) and the longer days to just wanter around Edinburgh after dinnertime. I discovered during Spring Break that I often like cities at night better than I like them during the day… and as much as I LOVE Edinburgh during the day, it may be even better in the evening!

Today, two important things are happening. First, my friend, Alison, is leaving today. She is the first of my close friends to leave Scotland… and it’s the first major reminder that, yes, this is all coming to an end. More goodbyes are still ahead, and I know they will only get harder, but I truly hope that I can stay in touch with the dear friends that I have made this semester. Most of them go to Brown and Wellesley, which are both very close to Boston, so I’m hoping to take a trip to Boston next fall over Fall Break in mid-October. I hope it works out!

The second thing happening today is that I am flying to Galway, Ireland with my flatmate! We are arriving late tonight, and then spending Friday, Saturday, and Sunday in Galway. We fly back to Edinburgh on Sunday, exactly one week before I’ll be BACK at the Edinburgh Airport to take a much  longer flight back to Portland. I’m really excited to visit Galway. I’ve heard that the people are really friendly and, of course, the scenery is supposed to be breathtaking!! We have plans to visit both the Cliffs of Moher and the Aran Islands. 🙂 I’ll post pictures from our weekend away after I get back next week. (I’m also planning a trip to the Scottish Highlands next Tuesday, so there will be LOTS of scenery in my next post, I’m sure.)

I have to get packing for our flight tonight (I’m restricted to one backpack for the three days… wish me luck on fitting everything). I hope all the Loggers are enjoying summer and, to any other study abroad participants out there, I hope you have either made it safely back to the states, or are enjoying your last few days/weeks abroad as much as I am. It is truly an amazing once-in-a-lifetime experience, and I urge you to take advantage of every moment. Cheers!

Posted in Alayna Schoblaske '10, Scotland | Leave a comment

Got Apricots?

Part II of my trip to Morocco and Portugal

Marrakech, Morocco

The difference between the central plaza of the medina during the day and during the night is like the difference between, well, day and night.  With each of the five prayer announcements the plaza grows busier with more mopeds, more drum circles and more noise.  There are a few constants about the plaza: there are always vendors, there are always people, and it is always colorful.  The women´s hijabs (headscarves) and burkas dye the medina with blotches of hot pink, green, blue, sequin, fusia, and everything in between. Before the night vendors arrive, some of whom sell entire heads of animals, teeth and all (we jokingly called the process of eating this ¨sucking skull¨. Sound a little vampire-ish?), the dried fruit and nut stands and the orange juice carts have a monopoly on the plaza. The warm color of the dried apricots contrasts with the nuts placed so neatly on display.

I´m not great at estimating numbers, but we´ll just say there are a ¨montón¨ (many, many) of orange juice carts, each with the same exact set-up, prices, and persistent vendors.  The oranges are stacked in meticulous rows, and many times I considered (not seriously, of course) pulling an orange from the bottom row, and watching the stampede of fruit cascade off the stand. But don’t worry, those were very brief thoughts, and were always countered by “that wouldn’t be very nice now would it, Mikayla?”.

Our last night we decided to eat in the market and sample as many vendors as we could.  As an appetizer, we bought a bag of dried apricots.   Before I had even popped my second apricot, children were coming up to us with expectant hands, waiting for us to share our food.  And who can deny a child? Not me. We made our way down the first aisle of vendors, perusing the kebabs, the the vegetables gleaming with freshness, the mint tea, and the cooked heads.  There was one table set apart from the food vendors that looked as though it was selling small white shells.  But as we approached the table, we realized they weren’t shells at all, actually.  They were human teeth.  A graveyard of human teeth sprawled on this four foot by four foot table.  They were being sold for dentures, and I mean who wouldn’t want to have some random person’s teeth in their mouth? I just wonder how they were acquired…

As we lazily strolled through the aisles, looking at each stand indifferently, the salesmen swept in on us like seagulls racing for abandoned food.  “Hello! Hello! English? French? Spanish? Our food is ranked number one by the BBC!” The vendors often spoke at least three languages and as they approached us, insisting that their stand had the best food for the best prices, they casually helped themselves to the apricots, reaching inside the paper bag as they made their sales pitch.  At first Jake and I were a bit, well, surprised by this.  Is this customary? To just take a stranger’s food? After the second time this happened we laughed at the electrifying culture shock of our situation and began offering our apricots freely to each vendor we spoke with, until we were left with just an empty paper bag.  The vendors didn’t think anything of it and treated our small generosity with an air of casualness, as in “oh alright, I’ll take an apricot.” Either Jake and I were wearing a sign around our necks  that said “Free apricots! Please take one,” or it is simply a sharing community.  Something tells me that it’s a little bit of the former and a lot of the latter.  Yes, we were obviously tourists, and therefore we were probably perceived as people who wouldn’t protest to a little apricot theft (“Oh those silly tourists will probably just brush it off as ‘this is what I get for coming to Morocco'”), but ultimately when I think back on my Moroccan experience, I remember the generosity of Echo’s family, I remember the mother who shared her sandwich with me on the train, and I remember the man who helped us to our hiding hostel.  Morocco is a place of poverty, but also a place of immense generosity.  What I love about traveling is encountering a situation that just totally shocks you, and exemplifies the mountains of difference between your cultural norms and those of the culture you are being faced with.  It might take a few seconds, hours, or months to acclimate yourself but it is the challenge of this adaptation that is so fun, and for that I loved Morocco.  We continually stumbled on these intangible cultural barriers, clumsily climbing over them, walking around them, or jumping up just to catch a glimpse of the other side.  As I wandered through Marrakech, skirting out of the way of mopeds and pick pocketers, I realized that with all of our so-called “differences”, the cultural dichotomies between “me” and “Moroccans” really didn’t make us all that different at all.  Now please, take an apricot.

Posted in Mikayla Hafner '11, Spain | Leave a comment

Teaching English: Part Two

The end is here! My last day of teaching English at the association in Sale is on Wednesday. Good heavens, that is only hours away, really. I am terrified of this last realization, so I am going to move on quickly.

I teach the beginner and intermediate level English courses on Wednesday and Friday nights between the times of 6:30 and 8:00. I usually arrive at the association at around 6:00 and joke around with the members until 6:45 when I start class with the two or three students that have arrived, and inevitably between one and seven students will stumble into class during the intervening time. Now, like I said, I teach beginner to intermediate level English. Supposedly. I have long since come to the realization, however, that I actually teach Native-Speaking-English-Teacher-For-Free-Will-Answer-All-of-Your Questions- And-Will-Make-Funny-Faces-and-Play-Games-While-Doing-So. Which means that on any given night I will have any given level of student, with varying degrees of comfort in the language, and varying degrees of comfort with speaking up or participating. Which means lesson plans are really just mental exercises to get me thinking about basic concepts, and training myself to use small words, small sentences, and no conjunctions. Because otherwise, lesson plans are completely useless given the ridiculously wide range of student abilities and the unpredictable nature of class make-up on any given night.

I have found that the best way to proceed is to practice a basic salutation every night when I first begin (remember, at this point, I will have about two or three kids to work with). We will all sit together at the desks, and practice saying who we are, where we go to school or work, what we like to do, etc. When a student starts to stumble over making a clear sentence, or begins to get frustrated with a lack of vocabulary, I will start to slowly migrate towards the white board. I will transcribe our basic conversation, as well as start providing a vocabulary list of ‘new’ words that I suggest or that students ask for. It is in this list of new vocabulary, or in the basic sentence structures that I usually start adapting a lesson (really, improvisation is the only way to work as a volunteer).

For an example, I will use last Friday’s lesson. I began with three students: Fateha (I am butchering both the pronunciation and the spelling of her name, may she please forgive me) one of my most regular beginner level students and one of only three female students I have had the entire time, Mohammad (so vague, so vague, this name is everywhere, like calling him John or something) who is actually a very advanced student who I have a great time having conversation with, and lastly, a new student whom I had never had before, and who chose to maintain sealed lips but extremely detailed notes while I was teaching. Fair. To each his own.

Mohammad is very keen on simply practicing conversational English, and so for him, it does not matter that I will be teaching a beginner level class. He wants to listen to a native speaker speak English, and we both know that I will continue to make comments or small bits of side conversation to him throughout the lesson so that he may practice. Further, if the class stumbles upon a concept that I can’t initially explain by example/mime/drawing/small vocabulary, I can lean on more advanced students such as him to find the right words for me in Darija. Though I must say, my theatrical skills have improved a hundred fold since coming here (may no one dare play charades with me upon my return!).

During our cozy self-introduction review, Fateha offers all of us some candies from her bag. We all take one and pop them into our mouths, and I recognize they are similar to a tootsie roll, and bite down hard on mine. Oops, no. In fact, they are closer akin to sugar-daddies or sugar-babies. With this in mind, I am sure my reading audience is now laughing along with the rest of my classroom as I have now quite beautifully sealed my jaw shut. Well dangit! how am I supposed to be teaching English now? Some great pantomime, a few admonitions against sabotaging your teacher and several guffaws later, Fateha asks what the English word is for “chew.”

Ah, to Chew! I wander over to the board and begin to write, starting with the verb, and then the basic conjugation: I chew; you chew; he/she/it chews; etc. The new word in hand, Fateha tells me off, “Do not chew!” and waggles her finger at me. She then points to her teeth and shakes her head again, laughing. “O what?! The candy sticks to my teeth?!” I narrate for her. I write “teeth” up on the board, and draw a picture of a person and their smiling face.

Mohammad asks “Teacher, you say it is ‘teeth’? What is ‘tooth’?”

“ah, ‘teeth’ is plural, while ‘tooth’ is singular” I say to him, holding up one finger on “singular” and all of my fingers on “plural” to illustrated for Fateha and the new boy what I am saying to Mohammad. I then draw an arrow to a single ‘tooth’ and label it such on the board.

We joke some more, and I tease Fateha for tricking her teacher. Fateha teases back, and we all laugh. She reaches over and puts her hands on my cheeks and exclaims “Red!” to indicate my flushed face. And up to the board I run again, this time with “blush” and “cheeks” and a lesson plan! Today we will spend the day learning the names of the body! I draw a head on one side of the white board, and a body on the other side. I write down the basic sentences that I am using when I talk about the body (“This is my Foot, that is my toe!”  “My head hurts” “I hear with my ears and I see with my eyes”) and then proceed to introduce each new vocabulary word as they occur to us, with students pointing to parts they want to know, and me giving a name and a sentence for each. The beginner kids (sorry, by now, my classroom has swelled in numbers, I have between seven and nine students, some familiar to me, some not) are busy writing down the parts, so that when I begin the review and pointing to each part in turn, they can join in on the chorus. Meanwhile, the more advanced students (like Mohammad) are busy playing with sentences and figures of speech I am introducing to them (“I can stand on my own two feet!”).

Towards the end of class, I do a long, all-class review of all of the new body parts. I stand up front and I point to random places and I wait until everyone in the class has joined in on the chorus and then move on to the next part. As they happily argue amongst themselves about the right spelling of ‘knee’ (it’s on the board, so I don’t feel compelled to interject) I start to hum. Slowly their chatter starts to die down as they realize I am doing something. The students who have had me for a long while know that this hum means only one thing, that they are going to learn a new song. I’m sure all of my readers still in touch with childhood knows what song I am going to teach them; “Heeeeead and shoulders kneesandtoes, kneesandtoes!”

Once some of the students have picked up on the tune and have started humming along with me, I write the words of the song on the board and turn to face them all once more, and begin to sing. We all stand up, laughing, blushing, and rolling our eyes (but the crazy American volunteer is making us, and since we all are doing it, I guess it is ok) and sing along, bending and swaying as the song demands until finally, laughing, I dismiss class.

It was a really good session.

Each night I am walked from the association to the bus stop by a member (or a group) of the association. Often times, it is some of the more advanced English students hoping to continue practicing English and getting to know me, which is just lovely! Tonight, I am accompanied by Mohammad and Fateha, who links arms with me as we stroll through the dark crowded neighborhood streets. Mohammad starts our conversation off by praising me for making sure that the beginners in the class can understand and have something to practice and learn even though I am also sometimes addressing more advanced students in the class.

‘Well of course, I am supposed to be teaching everyone!’

‘Yes, but you see, in Moroccan schools, teachers will only teach the higher level students, and those who don’t understand just…don’t understand. That is why in high school, I never learned English in my English classes, and just sat at the back of the classroom making jokes with my friends. We couldn’t understand anything. We never took notes.’ (he is continuing from a conversation he and I had a few weeks before on where he learned English. He tells me that he only learned in the last year, when he traveled to Casablanca and realized that he needed to learn English because it is the common global language. So to practice, even while at work or studying, he would listen only to English pop music, and look up the lyrics online to learn the meaning behind the songs. In this way, he taught himself basic English, and now he comes to the association to learn better grammar and conversational skills. I am blown away by this story. But I have heard many similar stories told by many Moroccans, including my host sister. Indeed, it seems to me that those individuals with the strongest grasp of the English language are not the English students from the universities, who are often timid with the language outside of academic discourse, are those individuals who bluntly taught themselves. I am in awe!).

‘your teachers don’t help the students who are behind?’

Mohammad laughs

‘in the private schools, they start teaching English earlier, so that by the time everyone is in high school, there is already a big difference between the language levels. A teacher can’t teach two classes at once. So they teach the more advanced students, and rest of us left on our own.’

I learn that the schools will not divide the age levels, but instead assume that each class has taken on the same level of education as they have gone through school together. If a student can’t keep up, well, it is their prerogative to catch up. Not the teacher, who will see their presence as a nuisance to covering as much material as possible in preparing the students to reach the next level.

I am astonished, and more than a little thankful for the relaxed and accommodating system in the US. Making sure that everyone is at least gaining something from my class was an unconsciously assumed necessity and requirement for myself in teaching. I was more than a little surprised with myself at how strongly I reacted to the praise I was receiving for something that I myself saw as so basic as to be taken for granted. It had never occurred to me that simply having an entirely different conception of what it meant to “teach” was enough to make my classes not only helpful, but also preferable. It does not matter that I haven’t the foggiest clue as to what “imperfect present tense” is, or how to explain why he/she/it always has a bloody ‘s’ when you conjugate the verb. All that matters is that I want to be understood, and they want to understand; that I want to teach them, and that they want to be taught.

And together, we meet each other halfway.

My colleague, Drew (the only other American English volunteer at the association) would remind me repeatedly in my moments of self-doubt that I was first and foremost, a volunteer, without any experience or formal education in teaching English. ‘Just being enthusiastic and willing to fail is enough.’ But is it enough for them? I feel like I am just wasting their time! ‘they aren’t required to be there. They come when they have time, and they come to take whatever you can give them. So just give them what you can.’

It wasn’t until last Friday that I finally believed those words. That I was helping, and that they were learning. Lesson plans don’t matter. Grades don’t matter. Being conscious of how insane the English language is doesn’t matter. Know how best to explain the word “the” doesn’t matter.

No, in the end, all the matters is that we are all just trying to communicate, with whatever tools we have available. And some time or another, the message will get across. Or maybe it won’t. But even if it doesn’t, something else will. And that is something. That is teaching English in Morocco.

Me in the Roman ruins; not related to this blog post, but I dont really have pictures of teaching english...

Me in the Roman ruins; not related to this blog post, but I dont really have pictures of teaching english...

ha ha ha, but I have to laugh. That last bit was so very American of me!

Posted in Cony Craighead '11, Morocco | Leave a comment