Day Trips and the Theatre

A week and a half ago, I purchased a bike and last Saturday I took a biking adventure with a young woman in my program named Kiersten. We biked to a very small peninsula just outside Dublin, called Howth. The ride itself was gorgeous, taking us along the coast. The peninsula is almost entirely a hill and around the tip of it are walking trails that wind along, taking you right next to a drop-off into the ocean and providing a breathtaking view of the vast, vast ocean. After walking these paths and soaking in the peace of the water, we made our way back down to the town and the harbor and had the best seafood I have ever tasted.

My favorite trip of the last week and a half was to the countryside of western Ireland. When I was in Galway a few weeks ago, I met a young American woman, Katlyn, who is WOOFing (working on an organic farm in exchange for room and board) in a tiny town in western Ireland. She and I hit it off immediately, but our paths crossed only briefly in Galway, so I decided to visit the farm she is working on. It was a bit of a hilarious time getting there, but once I did I could not have been happier. I helped them harvest some vegetables, ate a lunch full of fresh food practically just out of the ground, and spent the afternoon with Katlyn, wandering the streets of the nearest bigger town and sitting in a cafe with hot chocolate and carrot cake, telling each other funny stories. When I left, as I settled into the bus for the ride back, I could not keep the smile from my face, basking in the joy and pleasantry of good company, serendipity, and the very unexpected ways the universe works.

The final highlight for this update is a play that I saw last night at the Samuel Beckett Theatre at Trinity College. The show was part of a large theatre festival going on in Dublin right now, the Absolut Fringe Festival, with almost 500 shows being put on at venues around Dublin for about two weeks. The show I saw was Eurypides’ ‘Medea’, translated by Robin Robertson and done in a modern setting. Everything about this play was outstanding. The program for it contains a little blurb about the timelessness of so many human stories, especially of love, betrayal, passion, etc. and that is exactly what this show was. The leading actress embodied the agony of her husband’s infidelity and the knowledge of what had to be done to him in revenge with such uncanny accuracy. From the first five seconds of the show through to the end I was in awe of its perfection and was left speechless afterward. Not only was the acting so moving, but the choreography, music, and lighting were absolutely beautifully done. It was tragic, emotional, gut-wrenching, and astounding (and this hardly even begins to describe what this show was).

I have been thoroughly enjoying myself here. So far it has been a trip of significant learning and growing as I have been encouraging myself to just strike out on my own, test my comfort boundaries, try new things, be brave, and, above all, trust.

Posted in Kristin Parker '11, Ireland | Comments Off on Day Trips and the Theatre

A Hot, Bureaucratic Mess and the Best Students in the World

Brandenburger Tor Fall 2010

The above picture is of the Brandenburger Tor taken last Saturday. I finally ventured out to the middle of Berlin and saw the Brandenburger Tor, Reichstag, Spree (the river that runs through Berlin) and the Berliner Dom last week. The visit was extremely brief and surprisingly enough, I remembered my way around (I went with a newfound friend, Katie, who was also kind enough to go to the Jason Derulo concert with me last Thursday night). I guess that’s what happens after seeing the sights 3 times already? Continue reading

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200 Years of Indepence in Chile

P9180154

This past weekend marked the 200th anniversary of independence in Chile! Since I arrived in late July, I’ve noticed the preparation for this grand celebration of “El Bicentenario” or “Fiestas Patrias.” To give you an image of how important it is, imagine Chilean flags waving throughout the city, on taxis, houses, banners, and sold by practically every street vendor in sizes from a pack of cards to a few feet long. It’s hard not to feel some sense of patriotism with the red, white and blue all over (the colors of both Chilean and American flags).

During the entire week, there were festivals, concerts, fireworks, and copious amounts of food and alcohol. All of the big stores close down for the day, and only small markets remain open. Many families vacation in the countryside for the weekend; those who don’t congregate in the parks, beaches and backyards here to celebrate. Kids are crazy for kites here, and since September is known for being a windy month they flock to the beaches to fly them. All in all, in comparison to the fourth of July in America, Chile appears to make a much bigger deal out of their independence day and the cities here were pulsing with energy during the entire week.

Despite how enjoyable the celebrations were, the viewpoint of a certain dance teacher I met a couple days ago sticks in my mind. When asked what she thought about the Bicentenario celebrations during an interview, she said (more eloquently than I can paraphrase here) that she thought it was a ridiculously exorbitant celebration for a country like Chile. Her questions: What independence? How could the government spend thousands on extravagant fireworks shows when there are still people uprooted by the 8.8 magnitude earthquake in February forced to live in the streets?

This week of celebration was also marked by protests, as every year it’s tradition to protest the anniversary of the coup d’état on September 11th, a date that sobers many worldwide for various reasons. Although I tend not to express my own opinions on politics very often here, I must say that I am incredibly impressed by the student commitment to demonstration here. I recall watching one of many protests in my university, La Catolica, with a friend before class. The students were divided by major and surrounded the entire enormous courtyard. They all held huge posters declaring their opinions. They marched against government repression. They sang and chanted in unison. This was only a small taste of the extensive solidarity that exists amongst student protesters in Chile, but I will forever remember the feeling in the air. Granted, I did feel like an outsider staring in disbelief at the sheer number of students protesting, but nevertheless I felt affected by this call to action.

Whether or not one is for or against celebrating Chile’s independence, this 200th year anniversary is a historical marker that I feel lucky to have been here to witness.

Posted in Rose Thompson '11, Chile | Comments Off on 200 Years of Indepence in Chile

I survived the typhoon (and the hospital)

It all started on my birthday.

Marked up and ready to be opened up.

Marked up and ready to be opened up.

I had a terrific birthday dim-sum lunch that my co-teachers Winnie and Sunny took me out to and I thought I just ate too much, which I did. After lunch, we all headed over to the bureau of education headquarters to have our bi-weekly fulbright workshop with all the american and taiwanese english teachers. This was ok. Afterwards at about 4pm, I started having severe pain in my abdomen, it would radiate around to my back, up to my heart, all over the place. I think it’s the worst pain I’ve ever been in, but I can’t say for sure. Continue reading

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Bells and Sirens

After months of paperwork, preparation, and packing, I’ve finally arrived in France (!), where I will be a language teaching assistant for the next seven months.

The long-anticipated day of departure passed with only a few hiccups. It was a rather long day, which is to be expected, beginning at a too-early 4:30 am on Wednesday morning, when the shuttle picked me up and whisked me off to an almost empty SeaTac airport. From SeaTac, my plane took me to Houston, then from there, straight to Charles-de-Gaulle airport in Paris.

On the leg from Texas to Paris, I met a friendly Parisian, who gave me advice for finding an apartment in France, helped me find my baggage in the airport, escorted me to the train station, and directed me to the right line for on-call tickets. My train arrived, and carted me and my thousand pounds of luggage away to the beautiful city of Lille (only about 45 minutes away from Paris by TGV, the fast train in France).

As Thursday morning continued, I began to feel pretty tired, but mostly, just lucky. First of all, here I was, back in France, having been given the opportunity to live here again. Second of all, I was meeting friendly and helpful people left and right, which is always reassuring when you’ve just moved to a new place, be it a different neighborhood, town, or country. On some level, all at once, I knew that everything was going to work out.
From the Lille-Europe train station, things began to get a little more tricky. For starters, I exited the train station, expecting to walk straight out into the typical scene surrounding a train station entrance, taxi lines, cars, and buses clogging the street, piles of luggage blocking the sidewalk, and crowds of people elbowing their way inside. Instead, I somehow found myself in a mall, which is apparently connected to the train station. Because what jet-lagged traveller doesn’t appreciate the good ol’ overstimulated environment of a shopping mall? Eventually I found my way out of the labyrinth, only to be welcomed by a slow drizzle, which I should have expected, but somehow didn’t really prepare for (the weather in Lille is somewhat akin to that of Tacoma).

By this point, my shiny feelings of luckiness were waning, and a new sentiment of needing to put my suitcase and duffel down somewhere dry was taking over. I almost succumbed to the temptation of hailing a taxi, and booking it to the nearest hostel, but instead asked for directions to an address (where I was supposed to meet the friend of my Couchsurfing host). And once again, a ridiculously friendly and helpful local not only gave me directions, but took me to the address. From there, my host’s friend helped me lug my bags to the apartment, while giving me a few tips about the local metro, pointing out good cafés, and giving me brief histories of various monuments. The shiny feelings were coming back.

After a much-appreciated shower and power nap, I met my Couchsurfing host. [Note: if you’ve never participated in/ heard of Couchsurfing, I highly recommend it. The hosts are fantastic, and it’s an excellent way to meet locals of the city where you’ll be staying for whatever length, be it a few days or a year.] The two of us wandered around for a bit, talking mostly in English, and then, after what was one of the longest days of my life, I crashed.

While the thought had occurred to me, in an abstract and vague sort of way, that I was in France, it wasn’t until the next morning, when I woke up to the sound of church bells clanging, and police car sirens blaring that I truly felt that I was back.

downtown lille

Posted in Tristen Hall '10, French Government Teaching Assistantship | Leave a comment

Ten Days of Ireland

Inis Mor and the AtlanticInis MorThe Cliffs of Moher as a Fog Rolled InThe Cliffs Before the Fog

I arrived in Dublin on September 1st, bursting with excitement at the adventures that lay before me. At JFK airport, I had been met with my first taste of the Irish accents that now surround me, and in the week and a half since my arrival I have been enjoying an education in new phrases and words–as well as mastering my ability to smile and nod at expressions and particularly thick accents that I do not yet understand. It is hard to believe that I have been here ten days already; I am certain the whirlwind will only pick up speed as the semester goes on.

The first few days were full of orientation, getting to know Dublin–the culture, bus routes, walking routes, levels of safety, social scene/night life–suggestions for managing money, settling in to our new residences, and making new friends at the same time. The other students in my program are from all over the states, from New York, Maine, Connecticut, New Hampshire, to Texas, Minnesota, and Idaho. One of the first things on everyone’s list of things to do was have a Guiness from a local pub.

On our first Sunday here, we went on an open-top bus tour of Dublin so we could begin to develop a better sense of the city’s layout. It was an incredible outing, made far more entertaining by live commentary from our bus driver–one of the first places we passed on our route was the smallest pub in Dublin, where he had had his wedding reception several decades ago. Though it now seems a bit cliche to say, because of how many times I have heard it myself, it is really quite remarkable how friendly the Irish are. A simple inquiry about directions will almost always turn into a quick lesson on the best places to see in Dublin and the rest of Ireland; and all of these strangers that I ask for directions additionally show an uncanny interest in what I am doing in Dublin, where I am from, what I am studying, and so on. It is a refreshing environment to be in.

To be honest, I have not had a bad moment since I arrived here, and this weekend topped off the experience thus far. I spent the weekend in Galway, which is directly across from Dublin on the western coast, a cute, quaint city with a river running through it and five to six blocks of ‘pedestrian zone’ (essentially a bunch of cobblestone streets lined with gift shops, pharmacies, restaurants, pubs, book/clothing/jewelry stores, and cafes). The true delight of the trip for me, however, were two day-trips I took from Galway, one to the Cliffs of Moher and the other to the largest of the Aran Islands in Galway Bay, Inis (pr. ‘Inish’) Mor. These are now easily two of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. I think the pictures speak for themselves.

After this first exploration into the Irish countryside, I am eagerly looking forward to where my feet will take me next.

Posted in Kristin Parker '11, Ireland | Comments Off on Ten Days of Ireland

Burials and Birthdays

I had the great fortune this past Tuesday to visit Etruscan burial sites with the rest of the students from my program. At our first site, we admired the intricate paintings lining the walls of quite a number of Etruscan tombs. These paintings, which also existed on the slanted tomb ceilings, depicted scenes from Etruscan life, doorways to the afterlife, lavish banquets, various animals, intricate designs, and religious entities.

After exploring that site, we visited a museum full of, among other things, Etruscan sarcophagi. Many of these beautiful works of art possessed inscriptions and statues of the reclining occupants atop the sarcophagi.

After a quick lunch, we visited another burial site, at which Etruscans had built enormous domes atop large tombs that they had carved out of solid rock. Atop these domes were dirt and vegetation that had been allowed to grow. These tombs looked from the outside more like incredibly geometric hills than actual works of architecture. Inside these tombs were beds and other symbolic household items carved into the rock for the use of the deceased occupants.

Yesterday was my birthday and it was fantastic. In the evening, I celebrated my birthday with about a dozen other students by going to the Colosseum. As a special event for last night (and also for the next couple of nights), the Colosseum was set on fire by projecting video of pre-recorded fire into each of the Colosseum’s arches. The effect was the appearance of a massive fire within the interior of one of the world’s most spectacular buildings, which could be seen from quite a distance. The spectacle was an incredible way to celebrate a birthday.

Posted in Will Roundy '11, Rome | Comments Off on Burials and Birthdays

The Good, the Bad and the Frustrating: Orientation-Style

Orientation at Altenberg

The above picture is of the “hostel” the PAD (Pädagogischer Austauschdienst, a department part of the German federal government that has promoted teaching assistantships for over 100 years starting with teacher assistants from the UK in Germany) chose to host our orientation in. I have friends who’ve done Fulbright Germany last year and the year before, and both have also had the lovely opportunity to stay in this beautiful place. The small town is called Altenberg, except that we didn’t stay in the town. We stayed in the former monastery directly connected to the cathedral/church there. Before I delve into orientation, click here for the PAD website if you’re curious about the department.

Continue reading

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A Message from God

The god of heaven

The god of heaven

God laughed at me, then gave me a message.

An obvious difference between the States and Taiwan is the presence of temples. Temples in Taiwan come in all shapes and sizes and are often ridiculously ornate. These temples tend to be dedicated to a specific deity, such as Confucius or Mazhi (the female God of the ocean, and one of Taiwan’s most popular deities). These temples have a terrific mix of Buddhist, Daoist and Confucius deities and gods represented. Continue reading

Posted in Mark Maples '10, Fulbright to Taiwan | Comments Off on A Message from God

Salve!

Salve! That means “hello” in Latin. I was very pleased to learn that the greeting is still used by modern Romans!

I arrived in Rome after a long journey that started on Saturday morning and ended on Sunday morning. After three in-flight movies on two flights, I was ready to get up and stretch my legs. After a short cab ride from a man named Mario, I arrived at the Centro (pronounced chen-tro) along with another girl from my program who happened to be on my flight.

I was pleased to be welcomed by a friendly English-speaking Italian staff at the Centro and met many of the other students in my program as I unpacked in my room. I quickly found a group of students who wanted to explore Rome with me. Having only been in the city for a couple hours, I was able to try Italian gelato for the first time. I highly recommend it to anyone who has the opportunity to try it.

Later that evening, I went with a number of students deeper into the city in order to find dinner, since it is not served within the Centro on weekends. We crossed the Tiber, passed the Pantheon, and found a nice restaurant that served us some pizza. We came back to the Centro after nightfall, having seen the Vatican on the way back. I was so surprised and delighted to learn that so many wonderful places are so close together in Rome!

The program itself started on Monday after some much-needed rest. On the first day, the professors for our program took us right into the action, giving us a tour of some historical sites in our neighborhood and of the businesses that we would be likely to frequent. My favorite site that day was a monument that displayed the famous she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus.

On the next day, we were assigned an Obelisk Project, for which we had to, in groups of three, visit two obelisks in the city of Rome and report to each other that evening on what we had learned. Our principle obelisk was in the Piazza Navona atop a beautiful fountain. The experience not only allowed me to see some beautiful sites in the city, but also tested my ability to navigate a busy city without knowledge of Italian.

On Wednesday, I had my first experience with reading real Latin and Greek texts. It was daunting, but I was up to the challenge. Fortunately, the day itself was pretty laid back, so I was able to recover a little bit from the program’s busy scheduling.

Today was the best day I’ve had so far in Rome. We visited the Forum Romanum. I was able to see evidence of ancient Roman huts, the Temple of Saturn, where Pliny the Younger worked for four or five years, and the Lapis Niger, to name a few things. I’ve never seen such an impressive or historic place in my life. Our professors made the experience incredible by explaining the history and purposes of the different things that we saw. We returned to the Centro for lunch and this afternoon, I played frisbee with two people in my program in Rome’s largest and finest park, the Villa Doria Pamphili. I have gone running in this park twice already and I’m incredibly satisfied with its paths. Not only are the paths well-kept, but the park also houses magnificent statues and structures to view as you make your way through it.

Rome is an incredible city and that’s all I have to say for now!

Posted in Will Roundy '11, Rome | Comments Off on Salve!