Palaces and Terrorist Warnings

SanssouciGreat title, right? I always try to make the titles a bit interesting but this one didn’t take much effort nor creativity on my part. The past few days have indeed been filled with some touristy adventures laced with Berlin’s security forces gearing up for potential terrorist attacks.

For some recent information on the terrorist threat going on in Germany right now, you can look at either this article or this one.

(The Prussian Palace, Sans Souci, in Potsdam on the right.)

A friend of mine, K, visited this past weekend. She stayed from Friday until this morning (I took her to the airport at 4:30 in the morning. That’s friendship right there!). This gave me the opportunity to finally re-visit some of the memorable sights I enjoyed so much the previous times I was in Berlin. We were in the Pergamon Museum, saw the Genderarmenmarkt, lined up for 2 hours to go inside the Reichstag (Parliament Building), visited the Jewish Memorial as well as the memorial dedicated to the persecuted homosexuals during the Third Reich, stopped by Checkpoint Charlie, admired the Berlin cathedral, went into some random churches, walked by the Red Town Hall by Alexanderplatz, checked out Alexanderplatz and saw Harry Potter at Potsdamer Platz. Phew! K really likes palaces and so we planned a trip to Potsdam for Sunday because the weather was dry enough with some glimpses of the sun. Another friend of mine, K, came along with us to Potsdam.

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Wanderlust Hits Again

Bremen CathedralI immediately started planning for a long weekend in Bremen right after my 10-day Fall Break trip. I usually don’t like to cram trip after trip into my schedule but tickets are always cheaper when you buy them in advance. I have a really good friend in Bremen, who is currently studying there. His cousin and I are really good friends as well, and so the three of us devised a plan to meet up sometime in November. We were already planning to spend New Year’s together, but seeing that I’m conveniently located in Northern Germany, we decided that November would be the best month to plan a min-reunion. A good friend of mine (she’s also a fellow ETA in Berlin) met up with the three of us a day later.

The picture above is of the Bremen Cathedral (dedicated to St. Peter).

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The Troubles in Northern Ireland

Before arriving in Ireland, I knew next to nothing about the territory of Northern Ireland or the complex and horrific period in history generally know as ‘The Troubles’ or ‘The Conflict’. Three of the classes I am taking here in Dublin deal specifically with this situation, so my knowledge on the subject has grown exponentially over the past two and a half months. A brief, and inevitably lacking, summary:

For those who do not know, Northern Ireland is part of the UK, not part of the Republic of Ireland. Citizens of Northern Ireland who wish to remain part of the UK are known as ‘Unionists’ or ‘loyalists’; those who wish to join the Republic of Ireland are known as ‘Nationalists’ or ‘Republicans’. In the late 1960s, a community of working-class citizens of Northern Ireland began a Civil Rights Movement, inspired by the Civil Rights Movements in the United States, to request basic human rights from the British government that were not being given to them. When the British army and Northern Irish police forces used violence against these peaceful protesters, a radical part of the Nationalist community, known as the Irish Republican Army (IRA), responded by beginning an armed struggle against Britsih rule that would last until the mid 1990s. Almost 3500 people were killed over the course of the Troubles, by means of bombs, assassinations, murders, random shootings, etc. The IRA did not stop its violence until the Peace Process, during which leaders from all camps–Nationalist/Republican, Unionist/loyalist, British, and Irish–came to the negotiating table and created the Good Friday Agreement. This Agreement gave the citizens of Northern Ireland the right of self-determination, meaning that if a majority of the people in Northern Ireland at any point want the North to become part of the Republic of Ireland, Britain will support and facilitate this decision.

In mid-October, after spending over a month learning the ins and outs of the Northern Irish conflict, we had the opportunity to take a field trip to Belfast, a city that suffered dramatically from the violence of the Troubles. In Belfast, we visited Stormont, the Parliament of Northern Ireland. Here we met representatives from the five political parties of NI, Unionist and Nationalist, and had Q+A sessions with each of them. This was an incredibly interesting opportunity, as we heard differing perspectives on where the situation stands now, a little over a decade after the Peace Process.

The most interesting part of the trip for me was simply walking around the city of Belfast, trying to picture it in the middle of the mayhem and chaos of the Troubles, buildings bombed on every corner, British soldiers patrolling the streets. It was incredibly surreal to be there.

This post only barely skims the top of the Troubles, but once I started learning about the Troubles, I was appalled that my education on the subject was so minimal. The conflict is too complex a situation to reduce into a blog-post, but I wanted to at least acknowledge the importance that people know what happened there. If you are inspired, do some more research/reading on the subject–it is fascinating and tragic and a part of history that should never be repeated.

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Sing with the Mayor!

Kind of.

As a Fulbrighter in Kaohsiung, the Kaohsiung International Education Resource Center (Bureau of Education) foots half of my paycheck. So, sometimes we get an email from them asking us to participate in certain bureau events, but without really asking us. That is, its really hard to turn down one of these invitations. This turned out to be a great opportunity, actually, because we were going to learn a song in Taiwanese and then sing it with the Mayor of Kaohsiung, Chen Ju, who happens to be one of the most prominent members of the Democratic Progressive Party of Taiwan. The pro-Taiwanese independence party. Living in Kaohsiung, you get to hear a lot about the DPP, so this was going to be a really big moment for me.

Taiwanese song rehearsal

Taiwanese song rehearsal

Of course I jumped at the opportunity to SING with the mayor and hang out in the background of her endorsement of these educational things that are going on in the city.

We learned the Taiwanese song, and then an opportunity arose to learn a Mandarin song that would be sung in a small group, and I thought, hell, what’s one more song? Here’s a link to our mandarin song, Lets go to Kaohsiung, the time swims a bit, but all in all, solid shaking.

Sadly, Mayor Chen couldn’t make the date. She’s being sued by the Kuo Min Tang (the Chinese Nationalist Party) for negligence during Typhoon Fanapi, because she went to her house for a few hours during the beginning of the typhoon. It’s a political stunt, elections are this 22nd of November, so it’s just a distracting allegation, AND it made it so I couldn’t meet the mayor.

But, I’ve only been here three and a half months, I’m not giving up yet!

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Imperial Architecture

These past two weeks were full of incredible opportunities to visit important Romans sites, some of them being inaccessible to the general public. One of my favorite trips was to the Colosseum, or the Flavian Amphitheater, as it was called by the Romans. This huge structure was used for, among other things, gladiatorial games, public executions, and animal hunts. The students in my program had the exciting opportunity to visit the basement of the Colosseum, unavailable to the general public, in order to see how the Romans lifted animals, combatants, and faux scenery from beneath the arena floor through wooden trapdoors. We also had access to the third level of the Colosseum, which also has restricted access, in order to see the view of the arena from the seating areas of the plebians, slaves, and women. I noticed that although these groups of people were underprivileged in their view of the games and hunts, that they would nevertheless have a much better view of the city outside of the Colosseum and especially of the Forum Romanum. We also visited the other imperial fora (those of Trajan and Nerva) and saw the magnificent Column of Trajan, which depicts his Dacian campaign spiraling from its base to its top. Some other sites that we saw were Domitian’s Palace on the Palatine, the Arch of Titus, Trajan’s Market, and the Ludus Magnus, a gladiatorial training school.

Last weekend I went to another football match. This time, Roma faced its rival, Lazio, the other team based in Rome. One might compare their rivalry to the Yankees and Mets, but this rivalry is on a much larger scale. Games between the teams are known for hooliganism and violence. Even though Roma was officially the away team in this match, my peers and I were dressed in Roma gear and stood in the Roma section of the stadium. The game was exciting, with Roma scoring two goals on penalty kicks to take the win 2-0. I’ve never seen sports fans become as crazy as they were when Roma scored its two goals. Throughout the game, fans threw illegal firecrackers onto the field. The experience was quite rambunctious. Also, in a quite memorable maneuver, nine planes flew overhead trailing colored smoke, leaving the image of Italy’s flag.

Tomorrow morning I leave for Campania in southern Italy. My program has a week-long trip scheduled that is much like the Sicily trip from before. I hope to have exciting things to tell upon my return!

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Tales of an Orphaned Kitten in Chile

PB110487

My life has been greatly affected by a small being during the last couple of weeks.

No, it’s not a baby. In fact, it’s the most adorable little fur ball of a cat you’ll ever meet. I never thought I would end up dedicating more time taking care of a kitten in Chile than to my own whims and needs (don’t worry mom, I’m fine), but things have a funny way of working out. As an kind-hearted administrator for my study abroad program told me the other morning, “A veces, estás en ciertas situaciones por una razón, y esta vez la razón fue salvar a un gatito.” (Sometimes you end up in certain situations for a reason; this reason was to save a kitten).

It hasn’t been an easy last month abroad. There were a couple of days when I was so frustrated by the lack of concern for animals in my home-stay that I nearly changed houses. But the initial trauma of the situation has worn off, and in its place lays the feeling that maybe I can help save the world just a little bit, one tiny abandoned kitten at a time.

The story is long and rather complicated, but in a nutshell my friends and I found a group of kittens abandoned by their mother in the courtyard outside my house on a Saturday night. After a late night search, we discovered eight kittens in total, yet at various degrees of living and dying due to cold, hunger, and uncontrolled dogs. The next day, my friend Addie and I brought the three kittens that made it through the night to an emergency veterinary clinic. Two of them were extremely tiny, probably just a couple days old, and the veterinarian had to put them to sleep. He told us that while there are a couple of animal shelters in the area, they’re often at full capacity and also full of diseases. The situation for stray and abandoned dogs and cats in Chile is tragic.

But this story has a happy ending. One of the kittens we rescued survived the ordeal. We’ve named him Tom (or Tomcito, if you prefer the typical diminutive Chilean twist). He’s currently fast asleep in my dresser drawer after a big dinner of warmed milk I fed him with a syringe. He likes to sit on my shoes while I do homework and play with the fraying laces. Needless to say, this tiny animal has stolen the hearts of everyone who’s met him.

And this story does would not be completely without describing the lengths that concerned friends and strangers have gone to in order to help Tom survive. It begins with my four incredible friends who helped me search for helpless kittens trapped outside late at night, climbing around in a spidery, creepy garage and an overgrown garden until 2 a.m. My dear friend Addie, her incredibly kind mother Claudia, and her equally caring daughter Claudita have also opened their home to this kitten and cared for him during his first weeks, which has been no easy task. Claudia also helped us track down a veterinarian on a Sunday, which we initially thought was an impossible task in Chile.

The veterinarian at the emergency clinic was also a godsend; he listened patiently as we tearfully tried to explain the situation in our broken Spanish and handed us Kleenex instead of a bill for euthanasia. The clinic was not anything close to a nonprofit organization, but the veterinarian we encountered was clearly dedicated to much more than paying patients. He also raised our spirits by assuring us that Tom was going to make it, and that we’d done the best we could.

As luck would have it, my nanny here has volunteered to give Tom a home as soon as he can eat on his own. She is wonderful with animals, and I am sure that Tom will have a loving home for the rest of his life.

I’ve never witnessed such an extent of kindness and willingness to help something as seemingly inconsequential as yet another abandoned kitten. Perhaps I encountered a little bit of the infamous “culture shock” student abroad students are incessantly warned about when I found those kittens left outside to fend for themselves. Perhaps this scenario could have occurred anywhere; I was just lucky enough to have never seen anything like it before. Regardless of the country, I’ve been touched irreversibly by what I think is a global instinct of many to love and care for all creatures great and small.

PB110488

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The Little Moments in Life

Rathaus in MuenchenThe title is very misleading because one would assume that I’ll be sharing heart-warming anecdotes that have occurred in the past two months. Alas, being a very superficial person, I’ll actually be sharing slice-of-life moments with you that have tickled and delighted me on a very superficial level. Take my first little anecdote as an example:

#1: I went out for a beer with P (the British flatmate) sometime in September before we headed to a concert that was taking place in a church not too far away from our place (that concert was a disaster, by the way). We randomly walked into a cozy little place and even though the bar did not have beer from the tap (this is one of my few pet peeves with Berlin), we stayed because they had Augustiner beer. That was my first Augustiner since the summer of 2009 and I was extremely excited. What made the moment even better was that P mentioned that it was his favorite German beer without knowing that Augustiner has the indisputable reputation of brewing the best beer in all of Bavaria. Augustiner is so delicious, that the brewery does not spend even one Euro cent on advertisements. Yes, it is that good.

#2: I wore my Dirndl twice during the Halloween weekend.

#3: I found out that Daylight Savings Time in Germany was during the Halloween weekend. I love turning back the clock, even if it means having the sun set at 5 PM in Berlin (4:30 PM in December, yay!). To be fair: that thought didn’t cross my mind at the moment I found out while walking the streets of Berlin in a traditional Bavarian dress.

(Pictured above is Munich’s city hall taken from the top of St. Peter’s Church. You can see the Theatine Church in all of its Baroque glory in the background flashing its Baroque yellow at you.)

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Coping with Regional Differences

Theatinerkirche- München

I dearly miss Baroque architecture (I also dearly miss the sunlight after 5 PM. Bye bye, sun, until March/April…). The picture above is of the Theatine Church, which is located in my favorite place in all of Munich, Odeonsplatz. When I visited Bavaria during my Fall Break, I didn’t realize how much I missed Baroque architecture until I visited my three favorite churches in Munich. The smell of a Catholic church in Bavaria brings back so many memories, which sounds a bit odd but sense of smell triggers the most vivid memories (I feel like I’ve mentioned this before and so if I have, I am truly sorry for echoing myself in another post). For a small tidbit on Baroque architecture in Bavaria, click here and scroll down to “Holy Roman Empire”.

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Back to the Grind

This last week, much to my delight, I returned to work! And, to my even greater delight, I started taking an even more active part in the lessons.

On both Thursday and Friday, for each class, the teachers at my school handed off half of their students to me. With these 15 or so students at a time, I set off for the language lab, sometimes having received very specific lesson instructions, sometimes with slightly vaguer directions.

For most of these hour-long classes, the students interviewed me, the younger, lower-level kids asking more simple questions, such as my name, where I’m from, etc., whereas the older ones asked me a variety of more complex questions, about my likes, dislikes, friends, etc. A lot of the higher-level students were also interested in my, and Americans’, opinions about France and French culture in general, which allowed for a few really interesting class discussions, where we talked about stereotypes in both France and America.
In a couple of the beginning courses, due to their slightly more limited English vocabulary, the students ran out of questions for me before the end of class. I was able to use this extra time to get them to talk a bit more, having them introduce themselves and talk a bit about something that they really liked. Unsurprisingly, this was a fairly short exercise, and I was still left with additional time. The first time this happened, I became a bit nervous, racking my brain for ways to stall until the bell rang, as the students sat, watching me attentively.

And then it hit me, this extra time is when we get to do all the fun, silly stuff. I ended up teaching two different classes the Hokey Pokey (a great game for reviewing body parts and right versus left vocab), which the majority of the students thought was hysterical.

Apparently, the language lab windows are directly across from the security director’s office, as later in the day when he saw me in the teacher’s lounge, he laughed, and said something in French to another professor about the “dancing English assistant.” I attempted to explain the Hokey Pokey to him and the other completely confused profs, but was eventually obligated to act it out. I have now danced and sang in front of my peers. I’m sure they take me very seriously.

This next week, I’ll be working two days at my first school, and one full day at my second school. Pretty stoked, pretty stoked.

A bientôt!

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Well I’d Never Been to Spain

sagrada familia

One of the biggest pluses of being a language assistant in France is having a vacation-heavy French school schedule, allowing us ample time for adventuring. Right now, we’re at the tail-end of the Toussaint (All Saints) holiday, which is about a week and a half long in sum.

Another assistant and I decided to use this time to escape from the cloudy skies of the North, to sunny sunny Spain. As the title of this blog (taken from a lovely Three Dog Night song) suggests, I had never visited Spain before. Additionally, I knew maybe a total of five Spanish words before vacation: hola, gracias, adios, café con lèche…maybe only four. As we were in Barcelona, where Catalan (a language specific to the region, which kind of sounds like a mix between French and Spanish) is largely spoken, my extremely limited Spanish was usually rendered completely useless, anyway.

Linguistic difficulties aside, Barcelona was incredible. Colorful, textured, vibrant, and alive. It’s one of those huge, international cities where, as a traveller, I still managed to feel completely comfortable and unstressed for the majority of the time that I was there (as long as we avoided the tourist-heavy areas). Barcelona is certainly a city of movement, the streets and sidewalks continually filled with locals making their way to work, school, and other quotidian obligations and chores. But all of this movement, the comings and goings, seemed to follow a slower pace, lacking the crazed motion of other metropolitan areas that I’ve visited. The perfect vacation destination. We certainly took our time during our stay there, spending mornings in a local café, sipping on strong Spanish coffee, afternoons wandering around, evenings in bars, nibbling on tapas (Spanish appetizers, including everything from stuffed olives, to cheese, to sausage), and nights chatting with our lovely Couchsurfing host.

We managed to hit the major landmarks. On our first day in Barcelona, we climbed up to Parc Guell, a tall hill overlooking all of Barcelona, and its surroundings, with the mountains in one direction, and the sea in the other. We hiked through the surrounding paths, plazas, and archways sprinkled here and there with local artisans and musicians. Later in the day, we headed down to the Sagrada Familia, a towering cathedral which, hundreds of years after initial construction was started, still remains unfinished.

On our second day, we went to Camp Nou, the major football stadium in Barcelona (my travelling buddy is a huge football enthusiast), going on the full tour of the stadium. Afterwards, we made our way down to Las Ramblas, a large, packed, palm-tree lined street, bordered with tourist-centered booths selling everything from parakeet whistles to flamenco dresses. In the afternoon, we hit the Marina, taking a moment to admire the hundreds of white masts saluting us from the docked boats, before we began to make our way down the boardwalk to the beach. The Mediterranean Sea was as beautiful and calm as I had remembered it: a vivid shade of blue, mirroring the cloudless sky. The beach was packed with other vacationers and some locals, lounging about in various states of dress and undress. Vendors selling and proposing everything from cheap beer to foot massages made their way through the large groups of people scattered across the beach. I think that the only word that truly encapsulates the Barcelona tourist beach experience is “circus.” There are, of course, less populated beaches, but as they were a bit further away, we didn’t really have the time to visit them.

After running through the waves and lounging in the sun for a bit, we wandered up to the Gothic area of town. With its network of narrow, cobblestone alleyways, tiny art studios, clothes boutiques, corner cafés, myriad of old churches, and secluded squares, this area was definitely my favorite. On our last day in Barcelona, we returned to the Gothic district, spending all day wandering around and getting lost in its Venitian-like backstreets. As we made our way back to our Couchsurfing host’s flat, walking up the Passeig de Gracia, we managed to luckily stumble upon two of Gaudi’s famous houses, La Casa Battlo, and La Casa Mila.

A lovely and exhausting holiday, after which it was oddly comforting to return to my little home here, in Lille.

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